Onto The South of France

June 1  Albi It is Saturday, and in Albi, France, that means market day. Not just one, but many.  We drove to the  center of town to the market,  a newer square block stadium like building constructed to house all the food vendors under one roof out of the elements.  Like a real "whole foods." The array and variety was of fresh vegetables, meats and fresh bakery was overwhelming. A few blocks away was the "puse," the flea market.  Again the city provides a structure for the vendors , this one a roof only like a shed, probably the size of half a football field. Summoning Beth's snooping skills, we forged ahead . Rich looked casually but was mostly patient while I hunted for textile pieces and curiosities. One treasure for 3 euros was a heart shaped iron beignet maker on a long handle. I also picked up a red cross-stitched sampler made in 1930 by someone named by Florette, and a small piece of French lace. A short walk over a bridge brought us back to the main square and a choice of outdoor cafes. For the first time since we have been in France, it was finally decent enough to sit outside. After lunch we toured the Toulose Latrec museum, where the largest collection of his work resides. We saw of course his well known work, but also early paintings and sketches from childhood which are quite different. My favorites are the simple outlines of female figures on pigment soaked cardboard with spots of color, especially white highlights. After a few hours we tired to find the book market, but we were not successful. There is also a pet market. In the main square next to an imposing brick church (one of the largest brick structures in the world) a troupe of high wire acrobats was setting up their act with poles, platforms, wires etc. A few tents were set up sponsored by Rotary International, and throughout the center of town there were large balloon like lights being installed. We returned to our hotel room to rest up before our 8 o'clock reservation at a restaurant back near the main square . This restaurant was recommended by our hotel staff. It is in the Michelin guide and the chef has a surprise meal every night, you cannot order off the menu. It was the most unusual and extravagant meal we have ever experienced. Your choices are not dishes, but how much you want to eat; petite, medium, large or extra large. We chose medium, and close to the end we were praying that no more food would come.  This is because before the real eating began, there were several small plates, and in between each course were palate cleansers and other small offerings to introduce you to the main attractions. For instance, there was a dish with pistachio sorbet in cherry preserve as the gateway for the dessert. Each plate had unusual and even strange creations, like olives fried in Parmesan cheese, a pyramid of mango gelatin topped by edible flowers, asparagus filled with mushrooms, and a soft boiled egg then deep fried with an asparagus/potato batter.  We resolved never to eat again after it was done. Taking a short stroll in the main square again we heard excitement. Thinking it was the acrobatics performance, we were surprised to find it empty, but the nearby tents full. Packed into and spilling out of the tents were hundreds of people watching soccer on large tv's. a few steps away at the church was a  performance of dancers? The setting integrating dramatic lighting on the steps of the church. Cold and tired we drove home.  June 2  On to the Naylors We backtracked from Albi for a 20 minute drive to a "do not miss" excursion to the nearby hill town of Cordes.  On the way we passed glorious endless red poppy fields. No doubt one was the location of Monet's beloved painting of two mothers each with a child in the field. Arriving in the small town at he base of the hill, we immediately saw a little tour train and hopped on for the trek to the upper town which would have been a workout to climb. Unfortunately it was on the early side of Sunday am and most of the shops and restaurants were not yet open, and the otherwise filled streets were fairly empty. But the modern art museum was open. What a strange museum. Aside from the fact that they had a few Picassos a Miro and some Ledgers, it was a quirky exhibition of 3 artists in a maze of rooms we were given a key to unlock. In the basement was a large embroidery loom , a remnant of the once thriving industry in Cordes. A very steep walk down the hill brought us past picture postcard skinny stone houses with picture postcard baskets of flowers and climbing roses to greet us. We had a scrape on one side of the car when leaving the parking lot, but we tried to forget about it and concentrate on our route south and east to get to Pam and John Naylor's house, my 7th grade pen pal and her husband. There was the choice of taking the superhighway the A9, but we would have had to go out of the way to Toulouse to get it, or the straighter route on smaller roads. We chose the latter, and of course got lost many times into the center of some smaller cities where the trail of signs went cold. Seems to be a French trend not to continue labels assuming folks would go through towns to get to the other side. More like a French trick of the center of town merchants I think. We eventually caught up with the A9 near Carcassonne, but the afternoon was progressing and we didn't have the time to stop there. Someday I hope to go back. It is the fairy tale like town that Walt Disney supposedly fashioned parts of the Magic Kingdom from. We started getting excited when we turned south at Narbonne and travelled parallel to the blue Mediterranean on our left. At exit 41 to Barantes, we easily found Claira, and the familiar markers in the town, the water tower and old wine cooperative, which led us to the welcoming gate of the Naylor's "Serendipity" property. Pam and John live in a true paradise.  Their easy going white villa would be at home in any Greek island, although it is a very modern ranch home of two very English people inside. The guest house , their "annex," is as cute as can be with blue shuttered windows and colorful flowers in boxes and plantings surrounding it. The one bedroom, bathroom and kitchen/small living room is private and very comfortable. Between the two is an inviting swimming pool and terraced deck. The vista includes a grove of extremely healthy, thick palm trees and the shady alley they create, surrounded by many kinds of beautiful plantings. Beyond is an orchard of fruit trees.The overall scene takes your breath away. How wonderful to see them again. They are so warm, and just plain fun.  They had a welcoming champagne aperitif for us, and then as it was extremely windy we all got in the car for a sheltered dog walk in a public nature area.  A hearty trot of about an hour exercised the Golden,  Dougal, and the Yorkie, Sami, as well as their human walkers. We had a chance for the first catch up on what the assorted children are up to, and news of recent trips and activities.  Pam has, over the past few years, become a lovely painter (acrylic), and we were finally able to see up close some of her work. Impressive! John was the chef for dinner and made a delicious coq a vin, complimented by Pam's "pudding" dessert, which was a cake with plum sauce and warm cream poured over it.  John's mother's recipe won great praises from the Yanks. We talked and laughed until late and tore ourselves away to get some rest.