Aborigine culture

Shocking, but true. Australia had an official policy for many years that was Whites Only. The  European  settlers took over indigenous lands stating that they were devoid of people. Half caste children were eventually born, then stolen from their parents and sent away to boarding schools in an attempt to acculturate them as whites. Many did not see their families again.

We spent a morning with a man named Lindsey, one of these children. White skinned and blue eyed, he considers himself an Aborigine, because his proud family culture dictated his upbringing.

With Lindsey and a traditional painting he created

 He related how his sons and other teens "become men" in traditional initiation tests and ceremonies. Throughout their lives they can return to endure more tests, which involve cutting wounds into their bodies, scars being badges of bravery and commitment. Lindsey had (or has ?) six wives and one son with each. A photo of three first cousins showed one vey blonde boy, one dark, and one in between. He explained that the white genes are dominant and that in one generation offspring can be white as the Aboriginal gene is weaker. I don't know if this is true, but will try to check it out.

In 1972, a long overdue  public apology to the indigenous peoples was pronounced by the then prime minister for all of the atrocities and racism over hundreds of years. In the communities , often rife with poverty, addiction, crime and unemployment there is still much to be done to equalize their citizenship. It is a complicated issue which has some parallels with American treatment of native peoples and Afro Americans.

We soaked up all we could about the indigenous histories in a few excellent museums.

The Melbourne Museum, the National Victoria Museum in Federation Square, Melbourne, and Adelaide's Museum all presented various aspects. An A+ goes to the Adelaide collection of beautiful artifacts (especially the scores of exceptional baskets and shields) and the interspersed historical video clips of all aspects of cultural life. One cant help but be impressed by the ingenuity of these traditional people who had such limited resources but who lived well off of the barren and difficult land using everything nature offered.

 

They learned how to make medicines from plants, how to grind seeds for food, how to make spears and boomerangs, how to attach objects together with glue from animal sinew, and so much more. The land was their pharmacy, hardware store, grocery and spiritual center. Their reverence for the earth and the knowledge that they are one with their land is so deep seeded and central to their being that their removal from it created scars that may never heal.

Uluru and Kata Tjuta 

With the Youngermans and our guide Jak

The famous rock, formerly known as Ayers Rock, and its neighbor Kata Tjuta preside over the center of Australia, holding court approximately a four hour drive from Alice Springs. The area is the most sacred ceremonial place for the Aboriginal people, who have lived in Australia for over 35,000 years. How ironic that their land was "given back" to them in 1985. As a World Heritage site, the property has been a cooperative venture with the government under a board of directors, three quarters of whom are Abiriginal. Now only Aborigines are allowed to live there. The tourist industry is healthy, but regulated. Only certified guides are permitted to give tours or even information, in order to insure that the respect due the ancestors is maintained. 

Sacred water hole

Driving around the two structures, walking on paths in permitted places ( various are so sacred and reserved for ceremonies) and being present for sunrise and sunset was a true honor.

 

Our group was surprised with a lovely champagne reception at the sunset viewing spot.

We as guests of this ancestral people were touched by the stories of creation, tales of how the animal spirits created the rock's markings, and the wall paintings used as visual learning tools.

After getting up at 5 am to witness the sunrise over Uluru, and in addition the Southern Cross, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn, we were later privileged (in 100 degree heat!) to be able to walk up the gorge on Kata Tjuta. It was a round trip of about an hour, and well worth the trouble. It is possible to walk up a path on Uluru, but the tribe does not want people dong it in order to not violate the respect for the sacred place.

Thirty years ago when David was 8, his third grade class studied Australia for Folk Fair. His assignment was to report on Ayers Rock. I had never heard of it before, but of course was fascinated by the subject enthusiastically relayed by this young mate dressed up as an outback ranger with a red neckerchief. Twenty or so years after his report, he had to see it for himself, and went on a sojourn there. A favorite photo of him shows his back to the camera in silhouette gazing at his old red friend, the majestic rock . In solidarity...

Aboriginal art

Their paintings typically refer to objects in nature, their culture, or their traditional stories. We are wild about them! There are repeated symbols and motifs such as round objects depicting billabongs (water holes), animals, journeys, etc. The simplicity combined with design elements, color, and the stories they tell make for very appealing art. The museums had exceptional examples, but so did the main street, Todd Mall, in Alice Springs. Viewing the art galleries was a dizzying experience. We deliberated for a long time at the Papuna Tula Artists gallery, a cooperative who gives back to the community. It was difficult to narrow down the choices that all wanted to follow us home, but we eventually did buy several modest sized pieces of this unique modern art. Also selling on the street were Aboriginal women with their paintings spread out beneath trees. We felt it was important to meet them and buy   directly from these artists as well.

Aboriginal women selling their paintings

The Aborigines used natural substances to create body paint in several colors.