Budapest

Budapest is a vibrant city, but it seems as though they still can't believe they are not under the thumb of the Soviets, and can't get completely jump started. Many neighborhoods have renovated buildings interspersed with hovels and condemned structures. The neighborhood of our apartment at 14 Paulay is in the center of the city, newly energized out of the formerJewish ghetto. Surrounding streets have trendy design stores and restaurants frequented by the young and hip, all too often cigarette smoking. But there are frequent reminders of former Jewish apartment buildings now inhabited by squatters and abandoned synagogues, the state nor the Jewish community can resurrect. Some of the synagogues in this district are in use, mostly by the orthodox. The Dohany Synagogue, the largest in Europe at the time it was built in 1869, has space for 8,000 . It was a departure from the previous Jewish congregations, as the Rabbi gave his sermons in Hungarian, stood at a bema that was a stage at the front, and an organ played musical accompaniment to the prayers. Standing in the back and looking at the bema, it feels very cathedral-like.  

Friday night we attended services at the Frankel Synagogue on the Buda side. It is conservative but men and women sit separately. The building set back from the street is in a courtyard surrounded by apartments . There is a guard who questioned us, and asked Jim not to wear his head covering on the street. When he called a taxi for us he had us wait down the block for the pick up.

Our expert guide, Sophia , through Context Tours, is a professor of Middle East studies at the university. She didn't know she was Jewish until her father died. Because of the communist state, neither the mother nor the grandmother, who had been in a concentration camp with tattoo, revealed this fact. She explained how complicated the Jewish identity is in Hungary. After a half a million Jews died in the war, a more safe, pragmatic political entity was communism, at first. Within a few years, the true nature of the Stalinist regime showed itself, and the Jews were ensnared again. When the iron curtain was lifted in 1990, a Jewish renaissance occurred, and people who knew their parents were Jewish, and many who were surprised to find out, joined Jewish organizations to rediscover and reclaim their past.

A must after a Jewish tour is the Jewish Bistro on Kazinczy St. This kosher style restaurant has killer matzah ball soup. Huge, meat flecked balls in a beef broth are a complete meal. The most exciting find so far is FLODNI, a Jewish dessert; three dreamy layers of poppyseeds, apple, and walnuts separated by flaky cake. Dynamite combination.

We did a very touristy thing for an overview of the city; the hop on hop off bus. It was actually helpful, because the territory is spread out and we could not possibly cover it all. A related river cruise was enjoyed by all. Next to the river on a bank near the parliament is a heartbreaking memorial to the many Jews who were marched to the river, asked to remove their shoes, shot and thrown into the Danube. People put stones and flowers in the shoes.

A  Budapest must is a visit to one of the many bath/spas. We tried the large (yellow!) 

Szecheryi complex just north of Hero Square built 100 years ago. Outdoor pools, indoor thermal pools, moving waterways and sunbathing areas offer visitors a range of options in the company of the ornate columns and classical figures. I didn't bring a suit so I enjoyed a reflexology massage in the spa area, an highly decorated mosaic domed palace of treatment rooms. 

Also on Hero Square is the art museum. We didn't have time to see the permanent collection, but noted the special exhibition of Egon Schiele. Another must is the market. It is a block square indoor vending area for meat, fresh fruits and vegetables. Paprika in all varieties, dried peppers or ground is the queen. The second floor mezzanine in the expansive iron structure are the handicrafts. Nancy and I each selected our sample of Hungarian handiwork , of course not until we perused everything.

Our nights were as full as the days. One night we lucked out with late request tickets to the opera. Falstaff by Verdi was what was playing, so that is what we saw. The sets and costumes boasted the 1950's , including a clever kitchen of 50's appliances. Unfortunately, the libretto super scripts were in Hungarian, which has no relation to any other language except Finnish. We enjoyed it anyway.

Another night we attended a Folk Dance Ensamble performance. One early evening we went to the university at the invitation of Sofia to hear an official from NATO discuss Afganistan.

Restaurants.  Near our apt is an alley off Kiraly St. very popular at night. We found ourselves there two nights. One memorable restaurant is Yiddshe Mama Mia, the chef an Italian Israeli. The atmosphere and dishes got high marks. My favorite Vak Varju  (Blind Crow) on Paulay St has traditional Hungarian dishes, but the added bonus of live piano music every night.  It was an especially pleasant evening to spend the time with Broadway melodies, Cole Porter and embellished familiar tunes filling in the spaces.

The last night we took a tram to a section of town we had not been to, meeting Suzanne Fritz, the JCC director at Duna Park. We had visited her earlier at the JCC near the opera where we got a tour and an in depth explanation of the programs. Maintaining programming for a disjointed community is a challenge, but there is a positive attitude and great hope for the newer generations of Jews not shaped by the holocaust or communism.

We all enjoyed the Kishon Kafe,on Paulay St a block away from our apt in the space with the Israel Cultural office. The friendly Israeli kids felt like family after a few days.

Budapest, especially for the Jewish remnant is complex. It's challenges for all its citizens lie at the feet of the inflexible government. Yet, there is a hopeful spirit for some.