Krakow Day 2

Today was reserved for Schlinder's Factory. As they only give out a limited number of tickets, and Mondays are free, we needed to be there before they opened at 10. We barely made it and joined the swarms of high school groups already inside. Expecting to see a large, empty factory floor we were quite surprised to enter a series of highly engaging exhibits employing various multimedia components that chronologically took you through the war years. It wasnt just about the factory, but focused on the events in Krakow that led to destruction of the Jewish community. The path of the tour was narrow and clearly marked so the transitions between sections were easily followed. I found most interesting the number of stations where there were video testimonies of former employees describing how the factory worked and their interaction with Schlinder. Three and a half hours later this museum received an A+ from all four of us for not only content but presentation. Bravo. 

Note the beautiful gate at Shindler's factory.

A short walk took us to the where the Jews were gathered for transport. It is now a memorial with sculptures of empty chairs randomly scattered over approximately a half acre. It reminded me of the memorial in Oklahoma City. There is a famous apothecary on this square where the druggist secretly helped Jews. We arrived too late to enter that museum, but will try again.

Taking Ewa's advice, we went to her favorite cafe in Kazimierz, Kuchnia Domowa. It is right next to and owned by the same man from the restaurant of last night. I ordered potato pancakes with a goulash topping. Grandma Feigel, sorry, you have a rival. Every bite was a piece of heaven. Rich's chicken livers and onions were perfection. The food we have had here is what we think of as traditional Jewish food, but of course, it is really traditionally European. It is what Max wanted to have in Israel but did not exist there anymore.

These restaurants are directly across the street from the JCC. The building was initiated by Prince Charles! He had been in Krakow, and was so moved by a group of survivors, that he asked them what he could do to help. They told him they had no place to gather. He donated and put the plan into motion. Nancy had been in contact with the director Jonathan (a New Yorker) for a possible tour or meeting. He was out of town, so he arranged for us to see Anna, his assistant. She welcomed us warmly and explained enthusiastically the programming, outreach and future looking plans they had. It is a very beautiful, 5 years new, upbeat place. They have several hundred members, many of whom have rediscovered their Jewish roots after decades of communism. She introduced us to Justin Kades, a bright and engaging American here for a year to help with outreach. He spent time with us, showing us rooms and answering questions about the community. Before leaving we joined as overseas members.

With some time to spare before our Klezmer concert, we went to The Cheder Cafe, which is in part sponsored by a Jewish organization. It is a large, cozy coffee bar and library. We each found a book to delve into for a pleasant hour. The Izaaka Synagogue was right around the corner, so being early for the concert, we had time to look around the sanctuary. The walls had the prayers painted on them. This is the place where Chabad is trying to create a community. So far, there are not many members and occasionally the rabbi has to go to one of the other synagogues to have a minyon. There is no school for his children, so his wife teaches them. The mashgiah's family stays in Vienna to go to school and he commutes. The klezmer musicians played an accordion , base, violin and percussion, but no clarinet. The music was sweet, mournful, energetic and frenzied at times. A recommended activity, although at most of the restaurants on the square, there is nightly klezmer entertainment.